Monday, January 20, 2014

So I didn't really post costumes I like... here are a few:


Not traditional but still a beautiful pare depicting the fern frond:

    lovely traditional needlepoint ala 20th century...










gorgeous fitted green design...and very fine moko on the chin.  These are the real piu piu flax skirts, not plastic.  It shows in the grey black of the natural mud dye.


VINTAGE MAORI:
       

The true haka...WWII Africa and these are not dancers playing on stage but they are real maori soldiers on the frontlines.....  My mother's brothers Richard and George served in WWII.


If we ever wonder what a real tiki looked like...this is one.  A beautiful handmade jade hei tiki and kiwi feather cloak.








Wow that is a seriously long piu piu skirt and beautiful worn as a cloak.  I love this version and even the taniko border design on the kiwi cloak on the ground.  Double huia feathers in the hair.  Really worth considering as a costume for today. 





miro and muka cloaks the everday wear pre-European colonization.  So soft, warm and beautiful.


love this ti-pare (headband) with the six pointed star.  I was told the canoe Te Arawa used a central star for headbands and bodices.  My mother told me our canoe was Te Arawa our tribe ngati maniopoto.  But in research I have seen the maniopoto canoe was Tainui.  Our tribe Ngati Maniopoto is a large Waikato tribe very powerful in the bad old days of the King Country Wars.  Ngati Maniopoto chief of the time Tanirau supported Potatau Te Wherwhero who became great chief over all the iwi (people) later known as the Maori King.  Which there never had been one paramount chief before...although Te Wherowhero was the most powerful leader of his time...and the Waikato clans the most powerful group of Maori of which our tribe Maniopoto was a central force.  Ngati Maniopoto chiefs around 1880.





Our mountain is Pirongia on the eastern edge of the North Island.  Growing up in Hamilton, I loved looking at Pirongia in the distance on a rainy day...it is the mountain range directly behind the temple.  Our ancestor Robert Ormsby, a protestant clergyman and student of Trinity College in Dublin settled in Pirongia as headmaster of a school.  He married Te Rangihurihia of Ngati Maniopoto.  He renamed his wife Mary Bianca (Mere Pianika) and taught her to read and write.  It is recorded in Wellington that Pianika read and signed her marriage certificate.   His son, Gilbert William Ormsby married Eliza Moore and my grandfather, Oliver Cromwell Ormsby was their son.

Following is an excerpt from the days of my great great grandfather Robert Ormsby.

Accepting the kingship


Like the others (chiefs), Pōtatau stubbornly refused the kingship. Several meetings were held to discuss the proposal, including an 1857 meeting known as Te Puna o te Roimata (the wellspring of tears) at Haurua among Ngāti Maniapoto. Here Ngāti Maniapoto leader Tanirau announced his tribe’s decision to support Pōtatau as king. Pōtatau replied, ‘E Ta, kua tō te rā’ (o sir, the sun is about to set), meaning that he had not much longer to live. Tanirau replied, ‘E tō ana i te ahiahi, e ara ana i te ata, e tū koe he Kīngi’ (it sets in the evening to rise again in the morning: thou art raised up a king). He was suggesting that on Pōtatau’s passing his son, Tāwhiao, could carry on the kingship, which might then become hereditary. Pōtatau replied, ‘E pai ana’(it is good).1 With this he accepted the kingship, and Waikato the role of kaitiaki (guardians) of the Kīngitanga.

Excerpt from life of John Ormsby son of Robert Ormsby:




Story: Ormsby, John

Page 1 - Biography

Ormsby, John

1854–1927
Ngati Maniapoto negotiator, local politician, farmer, businessman
This biography was written by M. J. Ormsby and was first published in the Dictionary of New Zealand BiographyVolume 2, 1993
John Ormsby (Hone Omipi), of Ngati Te Waha and Ngati Pourahui hapu of Ngati Maniapoto, was born, according to family information, at Te Kopua, near Pirongia Mountain, on 6 November 1854. He was the fourth child of the Waipa schoolmaster, Robert Ormsby (known to Maori as Pumi), and his wife, Mere Pianika (Mary Bianca) Rangihurihia, daughter of Te Raku. The Ormsby children were educated by their father, who had attended Trinity College, Dublin (without taking a degree), before emigrating to New Zealand. A month before the outbreak of war in Waikato, Ngati Maniapoto relatives gave Robert Ormsby the choice of declaring support for the King movement or the government. He chose the latter and left the Waipa district with his family. John's 10-year-old brother, Arthur, remained with Ngati Maniapoto, while another brother served with the government militia. Having spent the war in Auckland, the family returned to Waipa.
On 6 January 1877 John Ormsby married a neighbour's daughter, Rangihurihia, also known as Rangatahi, in Alexandra (Pirongia). After her death, he married Marama Hiriako; she also died, and he married Rangihurihia's sister, Ngahora, also known as Moe Aranui.
Ormsby first rose to prominence in the 1880s as a protégé of Wahanui Huatare. It was a time of growing conflict between Tawhiao and Rewi Maniapoto over the former's claim to exercise his mana over the King Country. In April 1882, with his relative, Te Mohi Te Puaha (also known as Tommy Green), Ormsby is said to have assisted the Austrian collector Andreas Reischek to remove the remains of a Tainui chief, probably Te Rauparaha's and Tawhiao's ancestor Tupahau, from a burial cave at Kawhia. The cave was situated on land eventually awarded by the Native Land Court to Waikato, against the appeals of Ormsby's relatives who also claimed it.
In contrast to Tawhiao's continued refusal to compromise with the government, Ngati Maniapoto signalled their intention to work towards solutions to land and other problems. As part of this co-operation, they accepted the establishment of the Kawhia Native Committee under the Native Committees Act 1883. Ormsby was its first chairman. His functions were to investigate and report on land issues such as succession and title and to settle disputes involving claims under £20. The Kawhia Native Committee was seen as the most active and successful of those elected under the 1883 act. Although Ormsby was young, and junior in Maori terms, the authority of leading chiefs supported his chairmanship. They in turn were keen to make use of his considerable skills in speaking and dealing successfully with European officialdom.
In 1884 Ormsby and others successfully petitioned Parliament to permit Wahanui Huatare to address the House on Maori land issues. Ormsby accompanied Wahanui to Wellington. Their main concern was that they be empowered to deal with their own lands. Because of the government's intention to build the main trunk railway line through the King Country, the land had been put under proclamation, preventing sales other than to the Crown.
Their visit bore fruit when a meeting was arranged between Native Minister John Ballance and representatives of Ngati Maniapoto, Ngati Tuwharetoa, Wanganui tribes, Ngati Raukawa and Ngati Hikairo at Kihikihi on 4 February 1885. In his capacity as chairman, Ormsby presented the Maori concerns. They were anxious to protect their people from losing their land through rates, mounting private debt and consequent freehold sale, but were prepared to grant leases.
Ormsby obtained agreement that the powers of the Kawhia Native Committee would be expanded; that the operation of the Native Land Court would be reformed; and that Maori would have rights over the mining of coal and gold. The most important concession was that no rates would be levied against the land until it was either in production or leased to Pakeha settlers. Ballance rejected Ormsby's argument for increasing the number of Maori MHRs to eight.
The Kihikihi agreement was a success. Ormsby was delegated to discuss amending legislation with the government. The land court hearings proceeded without the drunken debasement or sharp practices that Ngati Maniapoto had noted in Cambridge. Ormsby's committee collected royalties from contractors for the rights to take timber and gravel, issued licences to keep billiard rooms, granted temporary occupation rights to Pakeha storekeepers and railway contractors, and liaised with the government. It also continued to administer Ngati Maniapoto and other lands. Maori land was leased to Pakeha settlers on 21-year leases, with five-year rent reviews and no compensation for improvements. In 1887 a party of young Ngati Maniapoto came to blows with contractors attempting to avoid royalty payments owed to the committee. The government native agent investigated and recommended that no further action be taken. Ormsby seems to have mediated in the conflict, and an arrangement for payment was made.
These successes did nothing to heal the split in the King movement. Ormsby bluntly repudiated Tawhiao's representatives at the Rohe Potae hearing in 1886, and resisted, for both practical and political reasons, the move of the court from Otorohanga to Alexandra or Whatiwhatihoe.
Further responsibilities came Ormsby's way. In 1886 he was made an assessor of the Resident Magistrate's Court for Waikato district, and of the Native Land Court. In 1890 he was appointed a commissioner under the Native Land Court Acts Amendment Act 1889, and he was appointed to the 1920 Native Land Claims Commission.
Ormsby was equally successful in other spheres of activity. In 1890 the Native Land Court confirmed the Ormsby family's title to 3,161 acres of land at Te Kopua and he began sheepfarming. The land purchase officer in Otorohanga, G. T. Wilkinson, complained that the success of the venture was encouraging other Ngati Maniapoto to retain rather than sell their land, but he was confident that Maori sheepfarming would soon fail. Ormsby went on to help establish the town of Otorohanga. He was chairman of the Otorohanga Town Board and clerk of the first Waitomo County Council, and laid the foundation stone of the town hall. He employed his Maori relatives to manage the hotel, quarry, butchery, livery stables, land insurance and interpretation agency, and the bakery which he established. His farming ventures continued to flourish and he established the first local branch of the New Zealand Farmers' Union. Ormsby refused to act as agent for the Ocean Accident and Guarantee Corporation unless they accepted Maori risk; they relented.
A reconciliation between the King movement and Ngati Maniapoto was effected late in Ormsby's life. In 1920 he supported the establishment of the King movement's marae at Turangawaewae. He was also an adviser to the Maori King, Te Rata, and assisted Te Puea Herangi to pioneer differential voting techniques to ensure the election of other Maori to local bodies.

John Ormsby died in Ngaruawahia on 11 June 1927. He was survived by his third wife, two daughters and two sons. He was highly regarded as a speaker and debater; he had an unrivalled knowledge of civic, legal, and government procedure as they affected the Maori; his advice was highly valued and eagerly sought. His work had ensured that Ngati Maniapoto did not lose their lands through settler and government pressure, and helped his people make a successful transition from subsistence living to the market economy.



What was there before Europeans brought the "kiss"?  Well there was the "hongi"...





      pressing together foreheads and noses shows affection, greeting and respect.  Aww  Northern and Southern hemispheres collide.





the beauty of white flax (muka) taniko (weaving) and green and black dyed twisted flax thrums (miro).



Another miro costume using modern fabrics it's a PCC costume made for the night stage...love the colors.




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Just some thoughts during the bleak winter weather...



I miss Polynesia...it's a feeling that is more subtle now as I get older and also because I have visited Hawai'i every Summer for the past 2 years.  But I do miss the beauty of the islands, the food, the fun people..so I'm getting ready to start "Hot Hula" today from youtube....it's such a fun way to aerobicise and thought I would drop some costume ideas on my blog.






Not typically a fan of contemporary samoan taupo (chieftainess) look...but I find this one pays a lot of respect to the traditional look.  Love it!  The Western eye might not see this as attractive (why? considering most of the weirdness folks put on themselves today) but it is a beautiful nod to the past.  The lauhala fine mat dress and tapa bark belt.  The ulafala (red seed collar) with the ula nifo (pig's teeth necklace).  The kuiga (queen) crown with mother of pearl shell, feathers and false bleached hair wig (sooo Tina Turner) what's not to like?  Lady GAGA could take a lesson in meatless all vegetal haberdashery.  I guess it also takes a cute teine samoa to be wearing it.

The very best Taupo are coconut oiled, move slowly with grace, keep themselves emotionally separate from the action on stage while performing just a beat slower than the music to punctuate their regal importance over the exuberance of those dancing around them.  They should smile throughout the performance with a calm detachment from the commoners as they are royal and in charge.  If you dance this you had better know and love who you are.

The fa'alolo (male lead dancer) has to be the most talented, coordinated and hilarious character, able to rouse the crowd, give orders to the dancers and exert discipline over how the spectacle plays out.  The best fa'alolo is always athletic.


 


The Ai'lao is a spear dance that is never seen anymore.  I remember seeing it when I was a kid.  I suspect it is similar to the Tongan Kai'lao which is still done by the Tongans and my FAVORITE Tongan number.  It requires a lot of stamping in unison, crouching low, high springs, twisting and spinning the kai'lao short spear.  When the men wear seed anklets the sound is amazing, brings tears to the true Poly eyes.



 



Vintage Samoa:  no fast food in Samoa in these days...everyone is super lean.  Oh probably after this number, these guys had to walk home, set out in the canoe to catch fish, grate coconut, and cook it all up with taro for dinner.  That would keep me lean and mean and hungry!  Hey, but isn't that the definition of a Samoan?








 Nifo oti knife dance.  Really anyone can do it (just kidding).  It isn't easy.  Both men and women dance it.  It is not an ancient dance with the fire aspect.  Traditional knife dancing was without fire.  Fire is an element in all of Polynesian dancing that has been added for the tourist value.  But it is now acceptable and the only form practiced.  My dad was an old school knife dancer...he had nothing good to say about fire knife...eow..I guess that's why I'm a purist in theory about costuming.

 KAP TAFITI TEO!!!  #1 knife dancer.  He's the best and a grandpa??  I just saw him at PCC's 50th last year and hid behind a coconut tree so I wouldn't have to say hi, intense he scares me.  How does he keep that 6 pack?  Oh yeah, I forgot, he took mine, and yours, and all of ours.....haha.  KAP is the best, just explodes off the stage...if there are knife dancers in Waikiki then he is better and he's all LDS!!!  Okay don't take that "I'm bad" look seriously every Samoan can pull that look out of their ie lavalava in a second.  When we're born, we have that look on our face like, "you better get me something to eat and FAST or I will take you out!"
 






SASA my fave.  No really, anyone can do this, just keep up.  The seated hand dance telling the story of everyday life combined with a vigorous running siva and lots of yelling.  Must know the running step, clap hands, run, run, kick, run, run, alternate kick....cheehoo bloodcurdling screaming and don't fall over (keep that lavalava tied!) and make SURE and wear your shorts underneath.  Immodesty shows a lack of "ma" or self respect.




A note on what we wore or didn't wear pre-European times:   Modesty was still a vital aspect of our people even tho they wore very little.  This fine point is little understood by Western thinking and even modern anthropologists.  Dress standards were what they were...but there were rules governing the thinking and behavior of folks to be modest.  There was a time after the islands became fully Christianized when these were the MOST modestly dressed and religious behaving of people outside of Utah.  When the missionaries taught us to be righteous our parents dressed modestly and became enlightened.  But now the young generation of Polynesians are turning back to the old ways.  The old wicked ways and justifying this as a move to authenticity.  Now I am saddened when I see our younger generations being as immodest as the most loose creatures to be found on a cheap Hollywood video.  Makes you just want to fusu the head of the offender.  So if you hear an old Samoan grandma say, "oe auoi she haf no ma?" you know what's up.  Don't even get me started on tattoos!  Well okay I have to say since YOU brought tattoos up...haha...just because we invented this intricate art form, since we know the prophets have counseled us to not mark our bodies... why do LDS youth of Poly extraction cover themselves like graffiti?  Do they not know it is forbidden?  Oooh I know if my Grandma was alive she would already be removing her shoe if any one of us grandkids were to do such a disgraceful thing.  Tattooing is like a pox of disobedience spreading over the world.  Ok, but I warned you not to get me started.






A final note...






The Samoan canoe at PCC what a beautiful example of modest young LDS men and women.  I love watching canoe pageant in Hawai'i, I know my eyes will not be assaulted by any sights I don't wish to see.  Ha!  Yeah, right over there where those folks are sitting I got an awful sunburn from sitting out for 2 hours...with my hair up.  I didn't think it was possible but my Samoan genes failed me.


Chocolate Haupia (Coconut) Cream Pie ala Ted's Bakery in Hale'iwa, Hawai'i...

Can I just say that I had been dreaming about hitting up Ted's long before our tickets were bought for the PCC 50th alumni anniversary last year.  Oh yeah, dreaming about a coconut cream pie.  Now I had never been to Ted's but I had seen it on the Food Channel and every tourist and their dog goes there.  So this was high on my list.  My poor boys could have cared less.  But one beautiful morning we set out before our PCC schedule hit, I planned to get there early, get my pie and holo holo back to La'ie.

Didn't happen.  After driving from Sunset to Hale'iwa for the 3rd time and seeing nothing that looked like a bakery, I asked several locals...oh they had directions all right...directions that lead exactly NOWHERE!!!  What were they drinking? What???  I was seriously frustrated.  It was getting late...the boys were hungry for lunch, missing their daily surf fix at Pounders beach...oooh I could tell things were going downhill when that inner voice of mine, the stubborn one, said "what?  you not even gonna get taste of da kine worl' famous pie?  you come all da way from da mainland, work all year in da salt mines for miss out dis?"  Oh no, I di'int.  I drove again to the tip of the island, Wailua town (this is a good 40 mile trip x 4 by now and the gas gauge had gone from full to half) found an old lady who looked responsible raking leaves and got the real GPS.  Because this time I was not playin...I didn't want to hear "jes go down dea, den turn, den keep goin....."


 



I found TED's...got in line behind a busload of tourists...got me a bag of goodies, cinnamon rolls terrific, brownies great...CHOCOLATE HAUPIA CREAM PIE.  Yeah we were hungry, it was past lunch time.  4 hours on this mission.  The boys really wanted Garlic Chicken from Papa Ole's in Hau'ula down the side of the island...and I wanted them to have a real lunch...not these starch dreams I had treasured for so long...only a winding drive around craggy north shore coastline on narrow Kam highway separated us from the chicken...I looked at the pie on the passenger seat...hmmm...no spoon..no fork...no utensil of any kind...but the Samoan in me knew this was a no brainer.  "hey....just use your 2 finkers like a sipungi..."  and so I did...and by the time we came into Kahuku that humongous pie was half gone and I was feeling good tho a little stuffed.
Trying not to crash looking at this...













and this..



and this...


     and this...
















 but...the Samoan genes pulled through...I was sure handed and steady with the haupia pie on the right and the wheel on the left!  I DO come from a long line of fire knife dancers!  Fa'afetai tele lava DAD!!!